Gluten-Free Évora: See the Chapel of Bones & Eat an Amazing Meal
“Nos Ossos Que Aqui Estamos Pelos Vossos Esperamos” is the inscription above the door to Portugal’s Chapel of Bones. Loosely translated, it means “We The Bones Here Wait for Yours.” Not creepy at all.
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Full disclosure – I hate anything creepy or scary. I am generally the first to avoid walking through a door with that inscription. So, how did I end up in Évora walking into the chapel? Honestly, I don’t know. Maybe because there was a restaurant I wanted to try? FOMO?
Either way, it was worth it! I’d never been anywhere like this. It seemed similar-ish to the catacombs of Paris without the crowds.
This day in Portugal was one of the most memorable of the whole trip. Eating Gluten-Free in Évora makes it worth the trip, even if you’re weirded out by a Chapel of Bones.
I’ll give you the info to get you some of the best gluten-free bread you’ve ever had. If you’re not gluten-free, you have more options to eat, but you should still check out the intermarry and what to do in Évora.
Where is Évora? How do I get there?
Évora is a small town 133 km from Lisbon toward the Spanish border. It can seem like a long way for a day trip; it is a little farther than some of the day trips we take. But it’s very doable in a day. The city is accessible by bus, train, or by tour.
By Train
The train will take an hour and a half and cost €12. Catch the train from Santa Apolónia Station or Gare do Oriente. You’ll get off at the Évora station. You can buy your tickets online before you go, but getting them at the station is quick and easy. After you arrive the walk from the train station to the city center will take you about 20 minutes.
By Bus
Rede Expressos runs a regular bus between Lisbon and Évora, which takes an hour and forty-five minutes. Catch the bus from the Sete Rios station. Tickets are 12€ one way and 21€ if you buy your return ticket (which you should). You can buy your tickets online before you travel.
The bus takes as long as the train but isn’t much cheaper. Train travel is much more relaxing than bus travel, so I always pick a train over a bus. Naturally, the train is the way to go on this trip, but you can disagree with me and take the bus if that’s your preference.
With a Tour Group
If logistics stress you out or make you uncomfortable, take a tour to Évora. This is also a good option if you prioritize learning and having a guide to ask questions. I prefer the freedom of making a trip on my own, but if you’re going to do a group tour, Évora is small enough that you probably won’t miss much with a group tour.
The Gluten-Free Meal you NEED in Évora
Food is a priority for me when I travel. So, first things first, this is where you should eat.
O Grão Da Mesma Mó is a dedicated gluten-free restaurant in Évora and one of my favorite restaurants anywhere. You need to plan around when this restaurant is open.
Their Facebook page is the best way to get information. Be sure to check the hours before you plan your trip.
We visited on Mother’s Day (we didn’t plan this… it just happened). We left the train station and walked straight to the restaurant. Eating here was our priority, so it didn’t matter that it was early in the day. Turns out, they were booked out with Mother’s Day reservations. Evidently, families come from all over the area to eat here.
How It Went For Me
I know I looked super defeated when I heard that news. I struggled on other day trips and was probably too excited about this place. My brain immediately started scrambling for backup plans when she asked if I was Celiac.
“Yes, I am Celiac.”
“Oh, My son is. That’s why we started this restaurant. It can be so hard.”
“Yea… It really can. Would it be possible to order something to go?”
“Okay… let me think. Are you ready to eat now? If you want to eat now, I can take you, and you’ll be done before our reservations start.”I almost cried with joy. Thank goodness for prioritizing food! The best part of being early and the only one in the restaurant was that I could talk to the owner and get to know her. One of my favorite things is getting to know the owners of restaurants, and she was such a gem. The restaurant had only been open for about a year and was already booming.
This was the restaurant highlight of my trip to Portugal. I had a strawberry salad that was perfect on a warm spring day. I also go to try some of her chestnut bread and Oh.My.Gosh. It was crispy on the outside, bouncy and soft on the inside, and warm enough to melt the cold butter. I devoured the bread with my meal. If I’m being honest… I still dream about it. I’d go back to Évora just to eat this bread.
I was shocked when she told me they sold their bread by the loaf. I knew they did, but I’d assumed that wouldn’t be an option on Mother’s Day. After our meal, I walked away with a precious loaf of bread and some brownies. It was still warm when we left, and she instructed me on how to cool it. I carried that loaf of bread around like precious cargo for the rest of our day. It was just as good when I cut into it at home.
What to see in Évora?
The Chapel of Bones is the biggest draw, but there are several other things to see in Évora. We could see all of these locations easily on our day trip. These were our favorite things to do in Évora.
Ancient Roman Temple
From the train station, the Roman Temple is a 20-minute walk away. It’s a beautiful walk through the white and yellow buildings. The ruins of the temple are known as The Temple of Diana. Even though it likely wasn’t a temple for Diana, the name stuck. The ruins are perched higher than the road, making for a great photo. There is a garden next to the temple with benches if you want to sit for a while.
Cathedral of Évora
The cathedral in Évora neighbors the temple, and the entrance is just around the corner. While it isn’t the home to the Chapel of Bones, the cathedral is a UNESCO site and worth visiting. Initially built in the 12th century, it was built in the style of the cathedral in Lisbon. You can see the cathedral and the cloisters of the cathedral. My favorite part of visiting this cathedral was going to the roof. You have to pay a bit extra (1- 2€), but you can wind up the staircase to the top of the building. Look out over the city or the Roman temple. Just be aware of the bell tower; when it rings, it’s extra loud on the roof.
Chapel of Bones
The Chapel of Bones is the biggest draw for Évora. It was built by Franciscan monks and still holds the remains of over 5,000 monks. The bones are arranged in patterns around the chapel; Skulls adorn columns and arches, and bones line the three little windows along the side.
The bones were exhumed in medieval times when the area was facing a problem with overcrowding. The monks removed the bones and used them in the chapel. This opened the cemeteries up to be used for buildings.
The monks took the opportunity to call attention to the inevitability of death. There is a poem displayed in the chapel that calls visitors to pause and consider their own death. No matter how eerie the medium is, it’s not a bad message.
If you’re traveling with young kids or are squeamish, skip the chapel. You can spend as much or as little time as you’d like in the small room. It was worth it.
If a chapel of bones isn’t odd enough for your day, continue your tour of the church by wandering through the extensive collection of nativity sets. Seriously. There is room after room of nativity sets collected from around the world. It’s a different experience but even more of a polar shift after visiting the chapel.
Other sites in Évora
Évora is a small town, which makes it fun to explore. It’s also very photogenic. The white and yellow buildings with the cobblestone streets are a stunning backdrop.
Look for the Moorish influence in the city; you’ll undoubtedly see signs of the Arabic heritage mixing with the Christian history. Specifically, there is a fountain a bit away from the center. I’m a fan of the tilework in the main square too.
The university was under construction as of 2022, but it could be worth wandering around when it’s open.
Évora was a perfect day trip for a Celiac in Lisbon. It’s easy to navigate, the sites are fascinating, and there is an incredible gluten-free restaurant.
Don’t be afraid to carry around a loaf of bread. It’s worth it. Who knew Évora had a gluten-free oasis in addition to UNESCO sites?
Other Helpful Lisbon Info
Sintra – Pena Palace, Quinta Da Regaleira and More
Portugal’s Golden Palace in Mafra
Where is Évora?
Évora is a small town 133 km from Lisbon toward the Spanish border. It is easily accessed by train or bus.
Can you eat Gluten-Free in Évora?
Yes! Check out O Grão Da Mesma Mó for one of the best meals of your gluten-free life.
What do see in Évora?
Évora is most well known for the Chapel of Bones. You should also check out the Ancient Roman Temple and the Cathedral of Évora.
What is Évora famous for?
Évora is most well known for the Chapel of Bones. You should also check out the Ancient Roman Temple and the Cathedral of Évora.
