How to Spend Two Weeks in Alaska

Alaska is the last frontier, and the wilderness is alluring. When you’re traveling to Alaska, a few things will be on your list: Denali, glaciers, bears, and the northern lights. The best part is that if you time it right, you can do all of it with two weeks in Alaska (or less)!

A little research before you start booking can go a long way to ensure you can do everything.

In this post, we’ll walk through how I planned our trip in 2021 and how you can plan yours to ensure you can see all the things you want to see!

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When to Visit Alaska?

It depends on what you want to see. You’ll want to visit Alaska in the fall to see the Northern lights, bears, and glaciers in one trip.

In mid-September, the seasons for Katmai National Park, Denali National Park, and Kenai Fjords National Park, are ending.

This is also the same time the aurora borealis season is starting in Fairbanks. You’ll have to check each activity’s closing dates to ensure you get everything. It will be colder than a couple of months earlier, and some restaurants will be closed. It wasn’t too bad and was definitely worth the trade-off.

The midnight sun is only a thing in the summer, so plan accordingly if that is higher on your list than the Borealis.

Itinerary for Two Weeks in Alaska: An Overview

This trip had to be rescheduled at the last minute, so some things weren’t ideal, but they worked out for us anyway. I included the dates in this post because the dates matter.

If you’re celiac, there are many great gluten-free friendly restaurants in Alaska should check out on your visit.

You will want a rental car for this trip. One of the best parts of this Alaska itineray is that you’re surrounded by beauty even when you’re driving from one place to another.

Day 1- Arrive in Anchorage (probably late in the day)

Day 2- Explore Anchorage

Day 3- Drive to Seward with stops along the way

Day 4- Take a Boat Tour of Kenai Fjords National Park

Day 5- Drive back to Anchorage

Day 6- Tour Katmai National Park and Drive to Palmer

Day 7- Glacier Hike

Day 8- Drive to Denali

Day 9- Spend the Day in Denali

Day 10- Drive to Fairbanks

Day 11-Fairbanks

Day 12– Fairbanks

Day 13– Fly Home

Anchorage: Days 1, 2 and 5

Anchorage is on of the easiest places to fly into when you look at flights to Alaska.

Anchorage is worth visiting and the city is fun to walk around, but it’s not really why you went to Alaska.

Things to do in Anchorage

• Hike/Walk- You can hike along many trails and parks throughout the city. University Lake Trail, Goose Lake Trail, and Tony Knowles Coastal Path are trails we enjoyed. Earthquake Park and Far North Bicentennial Park also have good walks to pass the time. None of the hikes was extra special, but it was good to be outside.

• The Lightspeed Planet Walk is unique too. The model’s planets are to scale and are spaced throughout the city as if we were walking at light speed. It’s a very interesting concept!
  
  We didn’t do the whole thing, but we looked for the placards as we explored the city. It wasn’t a must-do, but it was a fun way to see Anchorage and made the time in the town a little more interesting.

• Visiting museums- The Alaska Public Lands Informational Office, Alaska Museum, and Alaska Native Heritage Museum are all ways to pass a few hours. They are perfect if you are sick of hiking/walking or the weather could be better.
  
• Flight Seeing- Flightseeing is a popular way to explore Alaska. Since Anchorage is a bigger city, there are options for flightseeing Denali, Lake Clark, or Katmai national parks. There are also options for general bear-seeing.
  
• Fishing- If this is something you want to do, check the timeline for the various seasons. September is late in the fishing season.

Where to stay in Anchorage

There are many hotels and AirBnBs in Anchorage.

The city is small, so you’re only about 15 minutes from anything in Anchorage, no matter where you stay.

I chose to stay near the aiport and that worked well enough.

Seward and Kenai Fjords; Day 3 and 4

Getting There

Seward is south of Anchorage along the Seward highway. The 120-mile drive from Anchorage to Seward is scenic, and you should spend some time experiencing it rather than just driving as quickly as possible down to Seward.

Plan to stop in at Portage Glacier at the very least.

Before September 15, you can take a boat cruise out to the glacier. After September 15, you can still do the scenic drive and see hanging glaciers, and you may get lucky enough to see some salmon in the river. The whole valley is stunning, with several glaciers you can see from the drive.

The valley is also off the path enough that it feels like you’ve stumbled into your little space of wonder. There is something special about being able to experience the beauty of Alaska without the crowds. It’s worth the drive, even without the boat ride.

Train or Drive to Seward?

I know the trains are popular. But, the were more expensive and slower than I expected when I started looking. Then, a friend did a similar trip in Alaska without a rental car and was frustrated by how long it took to get anywhere.

So, maybe a controversial opinion, drive.

Some people do a day tour down to Seward by train, so the boat tours to Kenai are scheduled accordingly. This is a miss, though. Seward is a lovely place to visit, and rushing off after your tour means you miss some of that.

You don’t need a lot of time in Seward, but two nights give you time to explore the area and not feel too rushed after your tour. Since we had to schedule Katmai last minute, we couldn’t stay in Seward as long as we’d initially planned. We were envious of our friends’ second night there.

Seward

Seward is the gateway to Kenai (Key-neye) Fjords National Park. It is a smaller town than Anchorage, and they see a lot of seasonal tourism with the national park. By mid-September, the season is starting to end, and some restaurants are closing.

Plan ahead by looking at the restaurants you’re interested in. There aren’t a lot of chain restaurants in Seward, and you’re supporting local businesses just by being in the city.

The Iditarod dog sledding race now starts from Anchorage, but historically the trail begins in Seward. You can see the beginning of the trail by the water in Resurrection Bay.

Walking along the waterfront, we saw multiple bald eagles and seals swimming in the bay.

The city is easy to navigate and much cozier than Anchorage. Grab a coffee at Resurrect Art and Coffee and stroll along the water before exploring the National Park.

Where to Stay in Seward

The house we stayed in made it easy for us, and I’d recommend looking into a whole house rental if you’re visiting late in the season, especially if you have any diet restrictions.. You can look for entire homes and apartments on search sites.

Kenai Fjords National Park

Glaciers are one of the things to see when you’re visiting Alaska. Kenai Fjords is one of the best places to see them. The national park was the reason that we went down to Seward. The season ends in September, so make sure you check the dates before you book.

There are two parts of the national park; one you can access with your car, and one requires a boat.

By Land

Exit Glacier is the only part of the national park accessible by land. As you’re driving into this part of the park, you’ll see signs with numbers on them. These signs represent where the glacier was during the year posted on the sign.

The visual representation of the glacier shrinking is moving. It makes it seem more real because you can drive and walk where the glacier used to be. After reaching the parking area, there are several different trail options.

• Glacier View Loop Trail– This is a 1-mile accessible trail that gets you to a view of the glacier.
• Exit Glacier Overlook – This trail spurs off the loop trail and adds an additional 1.2 miles round trip. Still, you come to an overlook very near the glacier. You can’t walk onto the glacier from here, but it was worth the hike to see Exit Glacier a little more closely.
• Harding Icefield Trail – This hike is more of a commitment. It is an 8-mile round-trip hike with 1,000 feet of elevation. The work pays off when you get close to the glacier and away from the crowds. You can get great views halfway up, so you don’t have to make it up the whole trail. It does get lots of snow so check trail conditions. Trekking poles are recommended.

By Boat

The second part of the national park is only accessible by boat. The tour of this area of the national park was something we knew we wanted to do when we were planning. There are a couple of different companies that have tour options.

A half-day tour of Resurrection bay or a full day takes you into the park. Most outfits take the same routes, but we went with Major Marine because they listed gluten-free as an option for the meals.

The Boat Tour- What to expect

You’ll board your boat and head to your pre-assigned tables, so make sure you let them know when you book if you’re traveling with any other parties. Then you’ll begin your tour by looking around the bay as you head out.

We were lucky enough to see orca whales and the usual harbor seals in the bay. We also saw some otters in the water. Getting into Kenai Fjords National Park requires exiting Resurrection Bay and crossing the ocean before entering another protected bay.

The weather had been horrible leading up to the day we went. The boats hadn’t been able to make it out of the bay, and the guides recommended Dramamine to everyone, even if you didn’t usually get motion sick.

We were able to make it into the park after battling 30-foot seas.

If you get seasick, consider that. My husband was so ill he didn’t get to enjoy anything after we left the bay. He was sick even after we made it to calmer water.

After you enter the national park, you spend some time on the boat by a glacier. The captain turns off the boat so you can only hear the glacier and feel how cold it makes the air around it.

You can listen to the glacier cracking, and if you’re lucky, you’ll see a piece breaking into the water. The glacier is stunning, and experiencing time next to it is incredible.

Was it worth it?

Many people would choose to stay in Anchorage instead of Palmer, but Palmer is worth the visit. Palmer is a smaller town between Anchorage and Denali. About 45 minutes from Anchorage, Palmer allows you to get away from the other tourists. Find a rental in the area that gets you away from the small city. There’s a good chance you’ll see a moose while driving to or from your rental…maybe even in the yard!

Katmai National Park- Day 6

Katmai National Park is home to Brook’s Fall and grizzly bears. It’s one of the most unique things you an do in Alaska. It requires a flight from Anchorage since there are no roads into the park.

I doubted how amazing Katmai would be and I shouldn’t have. It is expensive. But, it’s one of the most memorable days I’ve ever had on a trip.

But, it’s so much to write up I have a full post about how to take a day trip to Katmai.

Palmer- Day 7

Many people would probably choose to stay in Anchorage instead of Palmer but I think Palmer is worth the visit.

Palmer is a smaller town between Anchorage and Denali. About 45 minutes from Anchorage, Palmer affords you the opportunity to get away from the other tourists and spend some time outside.

Hiking

The hiking in the area is impressive. Check out Thunderbird Falls, a 1.8-mile out-and-back trail to a waterfall. If you do some exploring, you can find a way to see the falls from the top and at the base. For a more challenging trail, check out Lazy Mountain.

Reindeer Farm and Sled Dogs

In addition to hiking, you can see a reindeer farm.

Make reservations early, and if you want to see the sled dogs check the schedule. The sled teams leave in September because the sled-dog season is approaching. You can even ride the training sled while the dogs run joyfully through their practice course!

For sled dogs only look for a tour here.

Glacier Hike or Ice Climb

Palmer is a great base to explore the Matanuska Glacier. The glacier is about an hour away down the Glenn Highway. It’s a privately owned glacier, and you must take a tour to experience it.

 NOVA was the company we went with, and even though we were nervous about the glacier trek, it wasn’t bad. This is your best option if you get seasick but still want to experience a glacier. Many of the glacier pictures you see in Alaska are taken from this glacier.

If you prefer to stay in Anchorage there is a day trip option.

Where to Stay in Palmer

There are several rentable cabins and homes in the area. Opt for one of those to get out in the wild a bit.

Denali National Park- Day 8 and 9

Denali is one of the biggest draws to Alaska. The national park is 4 hours away from Anchorage and is home to Denali mountain. At 20,310 ft, it is North America’s tallest peak.

Planning your Visit to Denali

During the primary operating season, most of the park is only accessible by taking a bus. Cars can drive to mile 15 as long as the park road is open. Beyond Mile 15, you’ll need a permit, or you’ll need to be on a bus. The busses stop running around Sept 15.

Part of the road is washed out right now after a landslide in 2021, so no one can get to the end of the road. The road will be closed after mile 43. If you want to go to the end of the road, the Eielson Visitor Center, or Wonder Lake, you’ll want to wait until the road opens back up.

Usually, there is a lottery system to drive in after the busses stop. You could run into early snow that closes the road after mile 3. So, if this is your plan, be flexible and build in extra time. You can hike some trails near the visitor center while waiting for the road to open.

Our friends were able to do the bus tour of the park a few days before we arrived. They enjoyed it. We just happened to luck into what I think was the better option… it was our only option after delaying the trip, so I’m glad it worked out!

The park was less crowded, but we had to be comfortable cooking and wearing warm clothes as a trade-off. Check before you go – you may not get as lucky as we did.

Where to Stay in Denali

After the bus stops running, the area around the park also closes up.

Get a room with a kitchen nearby since many of the restaurants are closed by this point in the season.

Denali Park Busses

There are a couple of options for the bus, depending on what you want to do.

The Transit Bus is $60 per person. This doesn’t include park admission, so you’d have to pay unless you have a National Parks Pass. Think of this as the hop-on-hop-off bus of Denali. You select a start time for your bus, but you can get off the bus to explore or hike and then get back on another bus if you’d like to. This is the best option if you want to explore on your own.

The tour bus is $165 per person and does include park admission. This is more of a guided drive through Denali. It will make fewer stops along the way by stopping at rest stops only. You stay with your group and your guide for the day. Consider this option if you’re less interested in exploring on your own and want to learn more about the history and culture of the park.

Where to Stay

There are only a few hotels around Denali National Park and no chains. If you’re visiting late in the season, look for a location with a kitchen since most restaurants will be closed.

Hiking Denali National Park

Many of the hikes in Denali are by the visitor’s center. You’re free to blaze your own trail in the park if that’s your thing, though.

• Horseshoe Lake Trail is a two-mile round-trip hike. You’ll hike across the railroad tracks and then down to a lake. You’ll get some great views of the lake and walk along the lake and a river. It was a beautiful snowy hike.

• McKinley Station Trail is a 1.6-mile one-way hike near the visitor center. It is easy to make this a much shorter loop if you want to walk around for about 45 minutes near the visitor center.
  

• Mount Healy Overlook -a 2.7 miles one-way hike that starts at the visitor and takes you up into the mountains. With 1,700 feet of elevation gain, it is a challenging hike. The views are so worth it! If you’re hiking in September, bring trekking poles and hiking boots. It can be snowy or icy as you go above the tree line.

• Savage River Loop Trail is at mile 15. This trail is a 1.7-mile loop with almost no elevation gain. You’ll be hiking along the river with spectacular views in a valley. The trail can get icy after snow, but the views are incredible. It’s easy to become numb to the beauty but try to be in the moment as you explore.

The Sled Dog Kennels

Denali National Park is home to its very own team of sled dogs! There is even a puppy cam for part of the year, so you can keep an eye on the sweet new puppies. The kennels are open a little later than the buses are.

You can see the kennels, learn about sled dogs, and meet some team members. The dogs are out, and many will come over to let you rub their ears as you walk around.

Fairbanks- Day 10- 13

Fairbanks is smaller than Anchorage but is the best place to see the aurora in September. It’s only about an hour and a half north of Denali.

You may see the aurora further south, but Fairbanks is your best bet. The aurora is finicky and elusive.

Just because you visit Fairbanks doesn’t mean you’ll see it, but if you give yourself some time and check the right places, you can make it happen.

While Borealis hunting is the main reason we ventured north to Fairbanks, there is more to do.

Where to Stay

Fairbanks is even smaller than Anchorage. It is also a college town, and there is a big draw for the aurora, so several hotel options exist. Fairbanks is easy to navigate, and everything is relatively close, so it won’t matter where you choose to stay.

The northern lights are a phenomenon on many bucket lists. When particles from the sun collide with the earth’s atmosphere, they are pushed toward the magnetic poles and create the northern (and southern) lights. The dancing lights can be elusive!

The magnetic storms and weather must align with dark skies, so it’s tricky!

Borealis Searching Tools

Seeing the northern lights will require some work and some luck.

Start by looking at the KP forecast. Some apps for your phone may be easier to check than the website: My Aurora Forecast, for example.

A KP index of 4 or higher is ideal, but even at two/three, you may still see the aurora. Check the KP and weather forecasts to determine if you have a window to see the lights.

Mid-September is the early end of the season, so going much earlier may make seeing the lights more difficult. Who knows, though?

The week before we arrived in Fairbanks, there were some fantastic auroras! In mid-September, they will likely make an appearance around midnight, sometime between 10 pm and 2 am {hopefully}.

Many hotels in the area will give you a wake-up call when the lights come out if you’d rather only venture out on your own once you know the lights are out. Just know they can come and go quickly.

Where to see the Aurora Borealis in Fairbanks?

If/when you get a good combination of weather and the KP index, you’ll want to have a plan for where you’re going. You can head out to Chena Hot Springs or stay in Fairbanks at Creamer’s Field. I’d recommend heading out Chena Hot Springs Road.

Note, the Chena Hot Springs lodging got terrible reviews so I opted out.

After you enter Chena River State Recreation Area, you can find pull-outs on the left-hand side overlooking lakes. It is a great place to get photos of the northern lights with the trees and the water without being too far outside Fairbanks.

You’ll get the beauty of the lights not being as tainted by city lights but don’t have to go all the way to the end of the road in the middle of the night.

When you’re out searching, the lights start out looking like a green cloud that moves.

With any luck, they’ll get stronger and look like green streaks dancing across the sky. There is nothing like experiencing the lights in person. It is awe-inspiring.

We were lucky enough to see them early in the night and could watch for a couple hours before heading back to the hotel. It was hard to leave them. I didn’t feel well the night we watched and was still so sad to leave the lights.

As I watched them, I felt so small and connected to the world simultaneously. I remember trying to take a video in my mind while willing my body to remember the feeling of awe.

Trans-Alaska Pipeline

The Trans-Alaska Pipeline is an engineering marvel. The trip to see it was for my engineer husband, but it was much more interesting than I expected. The pipeline runs the length of Alaska. It was built between 1975 and 1977. Just outside Fairbanks, a site with a portion of the pipeline above ground. The visit is short, but it is worth checking out.

North Pole

Okay… I thought this was going to be super gimmicky. North Pole Alaska is only thirty minutes from Fairbanks. I wanted to go because I knew my four-year-old nephew would think it was the coolest. He did, and it was gimmicky.

Somehow, North Pole was also the best of nostalgia and themed experiences. I felt like I was walking into a scene from the movie Elf. The giant Christmas tree and sleigh were dusted with snow, and the reindeer were starting to get their bushy warm winter coats.

The ornaments, fudge, and gifts inside made it feel festive even in September. I even got my picture taken with Santa and Mrs. Clause. Okay, that was so I could tell my four-year-old nephew that I’d met Santa. It was worth it, and I actually really love the picture.

You can feel like a kid again for just a few minutes, and there is something magical about that.

The fact that the town embraces it makes it unique and worth experiencing.

The Arctic Circle

The Arctic Circe is 198 miles from Fairbanks on the Dalton Highway. There is a sign you can get your picture with to prove you’ve been there. You can drive yourself, but the road isn’t good.

Most rental car companies will have this road on the list of places you can’t go. Some tours will take you to the arctic circle in a four-wheel-drive van. You can also take a flight tour into the arctic circle.

Other than saying you’ve been to the arctic circle, there really isn’t much you will do here.

If you’re interested in being up as far north as possible, check out Utqiaġvik. It’s on the arctic ocean and is home to polar bears! There are commercial flights from Anchorage and Fairbanks.

Gates of the Arctic National Park and Kobuck Valley National Park are accessible by bush plane from Fairbanks. They are in the arctic circle.

Other than hiking around, there isn’t much to do. There is only backcountry in these parks, so unless you’re super brave and very well prepared, they probably aren’t parks you’ll spend much time camping in. You can charter a plane and see both parks if you want to see a couple of great places and cross the arctic circle off your list.

Why didn’t we take the trains in Alaska?

Getting a rental car is my recommendation as you travel around Alaska. The trains are a popular tourist attraction and if you don’t want to drive the trains are a good option.

We appreciated the flexibility of having our own car. Plus, the trains were slower than we expected and were expensive.

If you want the experience of a train ride through Alaska, by all means, go for it! I bet it’s incredible! Don’t go into it because you think it is faster or more economical.

Two Weeks in Alaska

You can probably get the itinerary down to 10 days if you plan well, but I’d encourage you to take your time with the trip. Alaska has so much beauty, and the people are so kind and welcoming.

I’m from the south, so I know southern hospitality, but the Alaskans take it to another level. The state is fun to explore, and the scenery around you is breathtaking, no matter where you are.

Spending two weeks in Alaska in September is one of the best vacations I’ve ever taken.

I lucked into it being the perfect time of year to visit.